These are basic instructions for making animals, in relation to my kits, but also for general advice:

You can print some off, or I can email to you as well, just pop me a message!

In my unique, plastic and packaging free kits, you will have: a hessian bag holding your wool and tools, which you then empty and fill with rice to make a plastic-free alternative and a very satisfying-to-use rice bag pad; a felting needle and wooden handle; batt and/or roving roving wool for making your kit, including core wool for 3D animals - these will help you enjoy your creations! You can purchase a kit by clicking on the “gifts and kits” tab..

A recommended book for beginners is listed below - I feel it gives some very detailed tips and instructions... With the eyes, I prefer personally to use wool to form eyes as well, but you must use whichever method you feel most comfortable with... if you would like some intermediate or improvers' techniques, please message me and I can point you in the direction of other resources and my workshops: 

"Little Felted Animals: Create 16 Irresistible Creatures with Simple Needle-Felting Techniques Paperback – July 8, 2008, by Marie-Noelle Horvath".

Instructions:

Barbed needles push in and out the loose woollen fibres to create a fused, or matted, piece of fabric.
Place your wool on your pad, either folded in half for 2D, or into a tightly rolled ‘ball’ for 3D, and push your needle in and out, keeping it straight, with no ‘wiggling’, until the wool begins to condense.
It is best to begin with deeper strokes to ensure you are felting the inner fibres as well as outside.
Turn the wool over frequently to prevent it sticking to the felting pad.

For 2D, such as landscapes, you can felt loose wool onto pre-felt or a wet felted piece to give your scene stability. These can be framed, or hung as a tapestry from driftwood, when complete.

For 3D, such as animals or other shapes, you can achieve the desired shape and size by rolling your wool into a ball or sausage shape to begin with, then adding more wool if required as you shape the animal, and jabbing the needle in at different angles, either shallow or deep, to fuse, then sculpt or define parts of the 3D piece.

It can be a good idea to work from a pattern or pictures to begin with and practice your techniques as you experiment.

We will start with making a mouse, but as you will see below, this can be adapted for other animals.

Take a strip of your wool and roll up into a sausage shape, place it onto your felting mat. remember, wool will condense when felted, so don't start with too small a piece, but it is easier to add more rather than be able to take wool away once felted together. Using your felting needle and keeping it straight (no wiggles or dragging across surfaces), jab in and out of the wool, turning it regularly to avoid squashing it down into a 2D shape. Leave a little loose wool at one end for attaching the head. keep jabbing and turning until it has become much firmer.
For the head use the same wool and technique but make a ball about a one-third of the size of the body. join the two shapes together by needling the head onto the loose end of the body, turning the shape and jabbing into the neck area at a diagonal. 
the legs are small sausage shapes, jabbed to be quite compact and with a little loose wool on each to attach to the underside of the body.
If you wish to wrap wool around pipe cleaners or cotton-covered wire to make the legs pose-able, then begin by wrapping the thin strips of wool diagonally around the wire... then very carefully, aim for either side of the wire, into the felting pad, with the needle. You can felt the wool into place and turn around the leg to achieve a smoother surface. attach the leg to the body by jabbing along the edge of the leg, then roll up a small piece of wool to create a shoulder or hip. 
Use a little wool to form each ear shape, with loose wool at the bottom of each ear. once formed, gently needle a little of the pink wool into the inside of the ear, being careful not to poke the pink wool through to the back of the ear.
For the eyes you can either roll two small balls of black wool between your fingers and carefully needle in or sew on two black beads. repeat with pink wool/bead for the nose. for whiskers, Thread a sewing needle and carefully thread behind the nose three times, snipping the thread at your preferred length. for the tail, either needle in a length of white yarn, or roll a strip of roving wool in soapy water between your fingers to form a tail and then needle into the body. 

For 3D hares, foxes (or if making one of your pets) etc., you can achieve the desired shape and size by rolling your wool tightly into a ball or sausage shape to begin with. All animals begin as a series of geometric shapes, which are then connected together.
Create a wide oval sausage shape for the body to begin, then a smaller oval for the head, thinner sausages for legs, and long ovals for hare ears, or triangles for fox ears. You can, once your wool shapes become firm instead of soft, add more wool if required as you shape the animal. By jabbing the needle in at different angles, either shallow or deep, to fuse, you can then sculpt or define parts of the 3D piece.
I found it useful to simply create a ball shape to find out how to fuse and make the wool firmer, and for how long, before I began making the animal shapes themselves.

First, take a large strip of your core wool and roll up into a sausage shape, place it onto your felting mat. remember, wool will condense when felted, so don't start with too small a piece, but it is easier to add more rather than be able to take wool away once felted together. Using your felting needle and keeping it straight (no wiggles or dragging across surfaces), jab in and out of the wool, turning it regularly to avoid squashing it down into a 2D shape. Leave a little loose wool at one end for attaching the head. keep jabbing and turning until it has become much firmer. For the head use the same wool and technique but make a ball about a one-third of the size of the body.
Join the two shapes together by needling the head onto the loose end of the body, turning the shape and jabbing into the neck area at a diagonal. To do this, lie your creature on the pad, hole the head under your finger, the body held by your thumb, and gently needlefelt along the two edges, fusing them together; firstly head into body, then body into head, until they are firmly attached.
The legs are long sausage shapes – remember to measure them up against the body to gauge correct length - and create all four before attaching, otherwise they might not match in length! They need to be jabbed for quite a while to be compact, and with a little loose wool on one end to attach to the underside of the body.
If you wish to wrap wool around pipe cleaners or cotton-covered wire to make the legs pose-able, then begin by wrapping the thin strips of wool diagonally around the wire... then very carefully, aim for either side of the wire, into the felting pad, with the needle, and turn around the leg to achieve a smoother surface. Attach the leg to the body by gently jabbing along the edge of the leg, then roll up a small piece of wool to create a shoulder or hip.
Be careful not to hit the wire with the needle or the needle will snap.
Use two tufts of wool the same size to form each ear shape, with loose wool at the bottom of each ear. Once formed, gently needle a little contrasting colour wool into the inside of the ear (see pictures of your creature for suggestions), being careful not to poke the wool through to the back of the ear.
For the eyes you can either roll two small balls of black wool between your fingers and carefully needle in or sew on two black beads. Repeat with wool/bead for the nose. for whiskers, thread a sewing needle and carefully thread behind the nose three times, snipping the thread at your preferred length. for the longer fox tail, either needle in a length of thin roving wool, or roll a strip of roving wool in soapy water between your fingers to form a tail and then needle into the body, adding bulk to create a bushy tail. Hare and rabbit tails are teardrop shaped with white on the outside.

To shape the nose for foxes, you need to needlefelt the end into a fairly pointy shape. For hares, it is narrow at the end, but rounded off more than a fox.

Mole feet are made by folding a little lighter roving in three, then felting it flat, and then you can either shape the toes with a needle, or snip with a tiny scissors! To make a mole, use the core wool and make a nice fat sausage shape, then work on one end until you have a cone shape. For reference, your mole will be ‘sat’ on its bottom, looking forwards. Cover the core wool with your mole colour wool, add the feet and nose, then curl the wire provided until you have a little pair of spectacles. You can bend the nose down a little and felt into the inside of the bend, so the head looks forward instead of up into the sky.

For birds, make the body an oval 'sausage', then a smaller round/oval ball for the head, then connect them. You can then make two triangles for the wings, then round off the shoulder end of the wings, and create a point for the end. The tail is usually a basic rectangle shape, with a tapered end – see photos for more detail. The feet: you can also felt around short pieces of pipe cleaner if you wish or use the feet in the kits.

When content with your shape, add thin strips of your chosen bird colours onto your core body shapes. For the eyes you can either roll two small balls of black wool between your fingers and carefully needle in or sew on two black beads. The beak is a small cone shape... use a fine needle to felt the shape, and use a long sewing needle or pin to hold down the eyes and beak whilst you needle felt them into the head. for the tail, make a small rectangle felted as 2D shape onto your pad, then attach to the lower end of the body. the wings are the same technique but are two triangles... measure up against your robin/wren or blackbird for correct size before attaching!
NB: the eyes and beaks need much less wool to create them than you will think!

For owls, the head will be the same width as the body, with a flat, slightly concave face, and a hooked beak, and much larger eyes than other birds. You will be provided with (or can make) much larger feet with thicker wire for your owl kit.

For all creatures, you can add more wool to bulk out various parts of the bodies until you have your desired shape. If you wish a smoother effect on their body, needle lightly across the surface of the body in the same direction, as though you are ‘skimming’ across the surface rather than felting into the body.

There are some very good video instructions made by fabulous tutors on YouTube as well; do check these out for more tips, images and advice.